Ball valves also provide a better seal for a longer time, especially when they are flushed out with freshwater or a tank neutralizer and cycled before being stored for a long period of time. The valve actuator/motor is made to be sealed up against moisture or debris. There is no coil, instead, there is an electric motor that drives the gearbox to turn the ball. Some of the causes are the plunger not operating correctly, wrong voltage, or coil short circuit.Įlectric ball valves have a signal or switch wire that tells the motor to turn the ball and when to stop. Resistance will cause the coil to heat up and burn out. Solenoid coils require constant electrical current to keep them open or closed, depending on whether you have a normally open or normally closed valve. Unlike solenoid valve coils, the motorized actuators on electric ball valves do not have the risk of “burning up”. Why Electric Ball Valves are Better Than Solenoid Valves for Sprayers Note: If you have been using solenoid valves with a sprayer controller like the TeeJet 744A or similar, you will need to change your wiring in order to use ball valves. They are used for section control on self-propelled sprayers, planters, water trucks, etc. They can also be used as a regulating valve when they are equipped with the right type of actuator. If you have any other questions that I did not cover in this article, you can comment below.An electric ball valve can be used more easily with different rate controllers and switch boxes. If you are interested in purchasing a UTV sprayer with a pre-installed solenoid kit, you can check them out here.
I hope this post has helped you set up your electric solenoid kit for your UTV sprayer. Your in-cab solenoid controls should now be setup and ready to use. Finally, run the in-cab controls up and into the cab. Once they are secure, then connect the alligator clips to the battery on your vehicle. Using heat shrink butt splices and a blow torch, secure the alligator clips to the power cables. You will need to purchase your own as the kit does not come with them. Lastly, connect the power wires to a set of alligator clips. Then connect the other end of the pressure cable to the controller and tighten it with a wrench until it is secure. Connect the wire harness to the controller. Connect the two spade connectors to the butterfly valve.Ĭonnect the pressure cable and tighten it with a wrench.
Start by connecting the 3 valve harnesses to the valve bank. Now we’ll hook up the in-cab controls to the valve bank. Conduct the same procedure with the return hose, cutting it to length and securing it to the return valve. Trim each hose to the right length, slip the hose clamp on and secure it to the valve. Be sure to connect the right, left, and center boom hose sections to the correct valves so your controls are accurate. It will no longer be needed.Ĭonnect the supply hoses to the new valve bank. Unscrew the control arm from underneath the frame and remove it completely. Remove the return hose from the control arm.Ĭut the main 3 supply hoses out the other side of the control arm leaving enough length remaining to re-use that end of the hose. Make sure to keep the hose clamps you will need them again. Start by undoing the hose clamps at the control valve and cutting the hose. You will need to remove the Field Boss™ Swing-Arm. Note: These fittings do not come with the solenoid kit, so you will need to purchase your own. Using Teflon tape and thread sealant, secure the 3 valve barbs, the intake elbow, and the return elbow to the valve bank. Once the new bracket is secured, mount the valve bank to the new bracket. Then mount the wand clips to the new bracket and mount it to the inserts on the tank. We’re going to remove the standard bracket from the valve bank. Start by removing the spray wand clips off the sprayers tank.įor this setup, we will be using a custom bracket that does not come standard with the solenoid kit. Before you start, unpack the components of the solenoid kit.
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